TRISTEN ANN

I can confirm that Hawai’i is called the Rainbow State for a reason. I saw a rainbow almost everyday! Over the past month, I was lucky enough to experience all that the Big Island has to offer. This island in particular is very laid-back—and it’s not called the Big Island for no reason. It takes about four hours to get from the North Point to the Southern Point. The weather here is also a little bipolar; during my stay I experienced two tropical storms that brought power outages and road closures, which definitely added a bit of excitement to the trip. I stayed in the small town of Hawi, a charming little town that I would highly recommend to anyone ready for retirement lol. I made sure to get around to Kona, Hilo and everything in between, well aware that I wouldn’t have time to see it all.

I started off the trip by visiting Mahukona Park, which ended up becoming a regular stop for me during my time here. Nightly sunsets and tide pooling, morning runs and afternoon snorkels, whale watching, and sitting at the lighthouse. It’s a place where locals gather in the mornings and evenings to fish or hang out with friends, while tourists usually pit stop during the day to take in the views and snorkel. Even though it doesn’t have sand or a proper beach, it’s definitely a spot I’ll always remember.

During my time here, Kīlauea volcano erupted twice! Which obviously made me want to go see it. However, I quickly realized that everyone else on the island wanted to see it too. The line to get into the national park was extensive, so for anyone planning to do this—make sure you have a full tank of gas and plenty of food and water with you…don’t make my mistakes lol. 

I spent a few days exploring Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. I hiked the Kīlauea Iki Trail, which was formed during the 1959 eruption, believed in Hawaiian mythology to have been from Pele, the fire goddess. I also checked out the nearby lava tube and drove the iconic Crater Rim Drive—a curvy scenic route with more than ten craters and incredible views of the coastline. I was really impressed with how well-kept the park was.

My next adventure was a bit touristy, but I couldn’t skip it: the Mauna Kea Observatory tour. It’s a half day and night experience that takes you up the dormant volcano onto ancient sacred Hawaiian land. Sitting at 13,803 feet, it’s home to 13 telescopes that collaborate with 11 different countries. The mountain is considered sacred in Hawaiian culture and is often described as the realm of the gods, or the bridge between the heavens and Earth. I learned there is quite a bit of controversy surrounding the development of the observatories, which definitely made me think about whether or not we should be up there—but here we are. Watching the sunset from above the clouds was a moment I’ll never forget, and if that wasn’t magical enough, the stargazing that followed was completely otherworldly.

Fun fact: Mauna Kea is actually the tallest mountain in the world if measured from its base on the ocean floor, making it about 33,500 feet tall.

Another highlight was the Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden. The garden has more than 2,500 plant species and was established in 1977. It’s also home to Onomea Falls, a beautiful three-tiered waterfall. The entire place felt like walking through a jungle dream. There’s an orchid garden, a koi pond, an ocean overlook where you can sit and eat lunch, and small off-path trails leading to cliffs and hidden beaches. I spent about three hours there and easily could have spent three more, but I didn’t come prepared with snacks or water… rookie mistake lol. Highly recommend this place to anyone visiting.

After the gardens, I stopped at the famous Akaka Falls where you walk about ten minutes to an overlook of the waterfall and then ten minutes back. The walk itself isn’t anything too special, but the waterfall was definitely worth seeing. And then I visited the Kaumana Caves an hour away, one of which extends 2 miles back. I got about a quarter of a mile in and chickened out lol. 

And now for the best part of my time here—I finally did the famous manta ray night dive at Garden Eel Cove. It was like watching an underwater Cirque du Soleil show… on drugs. For the divers reading this: yes, it might sound like a tourist trap, but this trap is SO worth it.

We laid in a circle on the ocean floor for about 45 minutes with lanterns shining up toward the surface. Seven manta rays glided and danced around us, feeding on the plankton that gathered in the light. Those 45 minutes felt like five. It was truly magical. They get so close that their fins gently slap your mask and their bellies brush right over your head. I was literally jumping up and down underwater—and honestly, I’m still excited thinking about it.

I also learned a lot about manta rays that night. They are ovoviviparous, meaning their eggs hatch inside the mother before she gives birth to a tiny “manta burrito.” Only one manta birth has ever been captured on camera. Each manta also has a unique spot pattern on its belly, almost like a fingerprint, so researchers can identify individuals. No two mantas ever look the same.

Of course I did plenty more diving while I was here and got to see some really cool species that are endemic to Hawai‘i, plus a few I just haven’t seen elsewhere. For anyone interested in looking them up: Potter’s Angelfish, Bandit Angelfish, Psychedelic Wrasse, Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse, Shortnose Wrasse, and Baldwin’s Pipefish were some of the most common ones I saw while diving here.

The reefs here are mostly made up of old lava rock formations, finger coral, and a ton of sea urchins. There are also some really cool underwater structures—tall boulders, overhangs, archways, and the occasional swim-through—so every dive stayed interesting. Since I visited during whale season, I also got to listen to whales singing while I dove, which felt pretty magical. I saw turtles and a ton of octopus too, so overall I would absolutely come back here for more diving one day.

And for anyone visiting February-March, that is peak whale season so I went out to whale watch and was not disappointed. I got to see a baby calf, only a few months old, play and jump with his mom for an hour as the sun set behind them. Adorable!! 

I also did my best to check out as many beaches as possible. Some of my favorites were Whittington Beach Park for tide pooling, the hike to Kīholo Bay, the hike to Makalawena Beach, O‘oma Beach for surfing, Kohanaiki Beach Park, Isaac Hale Park with its black rock coastline, Kauhola Point for sunrise hikes, and the incredible views at Pololū Beach.

For anyone big into farmers markets, this island is the place for you. With all the rain comes lush hills where all the cows frolic, and agriculture thrives. (If I were to ever be a cow, man would I be the happiest cow here lol) There are so many markets multiple days a week, and they do not disappoint. In Waimea alone, there are three markets open on Saturdays where I enjoyed fresh fruit, bread, vegetables, while I walked around drinking out of my fresh coconut!

And finally, I must reveal my latest side quest… the ukulele. I’ve been wanting to pick up an instrument for a few years now, and what better place to start learning than Hawai‘i?

As if it was meant to be, during my first week here the famous Jake Shimabukuro performed at the local theatre. I was completely blown away. The talent this man has left me speechless. He made playing the ukulele look like he was DJing, playing electric guitar, and drumming all at once. I highly recommend checking out some of his music. He truly changed the game and turned the ukulele into something no one else has—or probably ever will.

And if you’re wondering… no, I’m not the best ukulele player. But I’m trying, and I’m having fun, so that’s what counts lol.

Overall, I got to experience some incredible places here and I’m so grateful for it. But now it’s time for my next adventure…

xoxox